The Goldsmiths’ Fair is a chance to meet the makers of dazzling designer necklaces, bracelets and rings. Be prepared for gold and sparkle seduction by hundreds of jewellers and silversmiths selling hand-made jewels from the Goldsmiths Hall in the City of London. Fashionline commissioned Dee Semple to produce a multimedia feature, on several of the 2012 exhibitors. She spoke to Ornella Iannuzzi, Jane Adam, Leyla Abdollahi, Barbara Macleod, Kerry Seaton and Maud Traon. Dee produced a short film about 30-year-old designer-maker, Maud Traon. Click here to watch.
Maud Traon’s, collection is exhibited at the Lesley Craze Gallery in Clerkenwell, she says: “Since I graduated I’ve always been more gallery and exhibition based. I don’t know why it’s just the way it is. I think that jewellery is really connected to the question of desire. This is what led me to making this work putting all the desire into one piece and seeing what desire it generates. I’m famous for using striking colours. I really like colours that look like colours, most of the time they’re not very subtle. My Goldsmiths’ collection is going to incorporate more precious material and I’m going to try to add some earrings. My work for a long time was based only on rings.” www.maudtraon.com
Ornella Iannuzzi, 29, is an artist-jeweller based in London, she works alone and hand-makes everything herself, she says: ”The Abyss collection is on-going. I started it in 2008, when I first exhibited at the Goldsmiths’ Fair, every year new designs come into it. The most striking piece of the Abyss collection is probably the evening necklace ‘Precious Trinity from the Depth of Nature.’ The South Sea pearls featured on it, combined with the pendant part in gold with diamonds, are quite outstanding and dramatic. The three most precious materials used in jewellery are combined in this piece – pearls, gold and diamonds. The design is very organic and recalls coral. It was made in wax first, and through the ancient technique of lost wax casting, became 18 carat gold.” www.ornella-iannuzzi.com
Jane Adam, 58, is a studio jeweller, based at Cockpit Arts in London. She talks of the fossil brooch from her collection, she says: “It is an important piece for me because it has a quality of serenity, which I aim for, but rarely achieve. It is influenced by many organic forms: fossils, shells, organisms seen through a microscope, and I feel it has a quality of having grown rather than being made. I used fine (pure) silver and bimetal, which consists of a layer of gold fused to sterling silver. I stretch the metal in rolling mills (like steel wringers) to create the ovals from circles, and to introduce distortion and texture to the forms. There are myriad sources of inspiration but above all my childhood shell collection, exquisite; complex geometric forms which I look at every day. I started work about a month ago and will probably be adding to the collection until the week before Goldsmiths’ Fair starts!” www.janeadam.com
Leyla Abdollahi, Creative Director, has a studio in west London, she’s recently collaborated with Swarovski, she says: “The Okeanides collection was launched during June 2011. The whole process took me almost one year to complete. The concept design development and progress, sourcing the materials such as stones, pearls and manufacturing. In April 2012, I collaborated with fashion designer Ashtiani, a contemporary women’s wear brand. The event was held at Wolf and Badger, a boutique in Notting Hill, London. Designer Golnaz Ashtiani creates high end ready-to-wear clothing that focuses on sharp tailoring and modern structured silhouettes.”
Barbara Macleod, 26, is a jeweller designer-maker, she works in the Scottish Highlands, she says:”I mainly work on my own – collaborations are quite difficult when working so remotely. However I hope exhibiting at Goldsmiths Fair in October will open up such doors. The past year has seen me introduce vitreous enamel into my work rather than cold enameling resins. The former brings a richer and glossier depth of colour. My latest collection, ‘Enameled Cluster Flower’, is a real exploration of enamel colours and multiples of graphic clusters and arrangements of flowers with gemstones. Each individual silver flower shape is lovingly designed using Illustrator and photo etched from sheet silver – it allows for great detail and clean, graphic lines. My main fascination is trying to achieve beautiful colours with enameling and gemstones.” www.barbara-macleod.com
Kerry Seaton, 27, is a Jeweller, from London; she talks about a ring from her collection she says: “The Sussex Loop in 18 carat gold, with champagne pave set diamonds, is the piece that always draws attention. I think because it is a comfortable easy ring to wear. I use forging, milling, and hand techniques to create it. The diamonds are sourced through the Kimberly Process. I aim to create jewellery with longevity, to be worn in, rather than worn out. I concentrate on a timeless quality and a sense of stillness. It’s hard to put a time scale on a collection because it’s probably always evolving in my mind.” www.kerryseaton.com
Paul Dyson has organised the Goldsmiths’ Fair since 2002. He says: “As the Fair has grown there have been lots of first time visitors, who come not only from all over the country but also from abroad. Many galleries and trade buyers attend keen to pick up the latest talent, although the majority of visitors are private individuals. They want to see a range of different styles and working techniques. They also come to meet and talk to the designer-makers themselves. Essentially they are looking to buy and own a piece. I always add two to three pieces to my own collection at each Fair. The Fair is definitely the place to go if someone is thinking of buying something specific like an engagement ring or a particular piece of silver for a special occasion.” Goldsmiths’ Fair, Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, EC2V 6BN, visit www.goldsmithsfair.co.uk
This feature was submitted to the Editor of Fashionline magazine in 2012.
.© Denise Semple 2012